Sunday was an early trip to Monte Alban with Lescas Tours. Our lovely guide explained the history of the site and then encouraged us to explore on our own; there were no visits to shops or tastings. Recommended if you aren't prepared to visit on your own, and useful as the English language signage is minimal. Although I was concerned when the lizards we saw were described as good additions to tamales. Run, lizards, run! Either way be sure to bring a hat and sunscreen; there's very little shade once you're there. There's a cafe and gift shop on site, though, and many stray dogs that are looked after by the guides. You're encouraged to give them a little water if they're thirsty. In addition to being one of the earliest cities of Mesoamerica, founded around ... read more

Osaka likely has a lot to recommend it but we went for the food. This post is a combination of two trips, one for dinner in Dōtombori and another for lunch and a visit to the seafood market before we flew out of Japan. Osaka’s obsession with food is often summed up with its unofficial slogan “kuidaore” which is usually interpreted to mean “eat till you drop” but actually means to spend so much on food that you go broke. Although quite entertaining, what we saw of Osaka reminded us both a bit of Shinjuku. Interesting but not really our scene. Our evening in Osaka we visited the vibrant and entertaining Dōtombori area. Its name comes from the 400-year-old canal, Dōtombori-gawa, now lined with pedestrian walkways and a riot of illuminated billboards. South of the canal ... read more

Himeji Castle is recognized as Japan's most magnificent castle, particularly after its recent five-year renovation, and certainly deserves its moniker White Heron Castle. Built in 1580 by general Toyotomi Hideyoshi, it was never destroyed by war, earthquake or fire and survives to this day as one of the country's twelve original castles. There's a five-story main keep and three smaller keeps, all surrounded by moats and defensive walls. Himeji Castle may be familiar to visitors because of its being featured in films such as Kurosawa Akira's Seven Samurai (1954) , James Bond film You Only Live Twice (1967) and Ran (1985). You should begin your tour of Himeji Castle exploring the surviving royal residential building with an enclosed corridor and multiple unfurnished rooms, which provides a completely different experience than the main building. Visiting the main ... read more

Probably the most rewarding day trip from Kyoto is the hike from Kibune to Kurama to visit the temple followed by a trip to the onsen. The train ride is a highlight in itself, especially with the changing autumn leaves, but likely all year round. This adventure would only be improved as an overnight trip or even a long weekend; Kibune itself is an incredibly cute little village with several beautiful inns that would be well worth a stay, and there are some great restaurants here too. The hike between the two towns is not overly long or strenuous, with a chance to visit some lovely shrines along the way, and it’s nice to get out into the mountains and away from the crowds. If you’re not interested in the hike you can take the train ... read more

You can't arrive at Fushimi-Inari Temple too early; head out before sunrise so you can watch the sun break though the vermilion torii gates either near the temple entrance or through the trees higher up the mountain of Inari-san. The higher you go the thinner the crowds, and you'll still encounter seemingly endless arcades of gates, mostly large but also small ones, and tiny ones, all bright red against the dark green foliage and gray stone foxes, scattered by the hundreds throughout the shrine and sub-shrines. It's a beautifully surreal experience. Fushimi Inari Shrine has ancient origins, predating the capital's move to Kyoto in 794. Fushimi Inari was dedicated to the gods of rice and sake by the Hata family in the 8th century. The fox is considered the messenger of Inari, the god of cereals, ... read more