Limerick (Bunratty) - Day 1 - Tipperary, the Rock of Cashel, Holycross Abbey and Bunratty Castle

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This morning found us heading north-west across the country towards Limerick rather than south-west towards Cork. Ordinarily a circumnavigation of Ireland would continue clockwise around the country BUT we had to make another compromise on OUR itinerary because of Bloody Bruce! Bruce and the E-Street Band are playing Cork tomorrow night, so fans booked out all the accommodation in and around Cork months ago!! Fortunately, it’s a small island and the cities aren’t too far apart. We will head down to Cork on Friday after Bruce packs up and leaves.

We started out travelling west on the N25 from which we could see another spectacular bridge crossing the River Suir. After we navigated a short section of the N9 and turned onto the N24 Bernie spotted a place to pull over to photograph the bridge. We were able to pull into the Grannagh Public Slip (boat ramp) to take photos across the water to the Kilkenny Waterford Bridge carrying the N25 over the river. As luck would have it, we were also able to photograph the ruins of Grannagh (Granny) Castle strategically located on the western bank of the river.

We continued on the N24 towards Tipperary but had to stop at a service station in Bansha because I really needed to pee! We didn’t need fuel, so I guess we weren’t really customers but when I asked about the bathroom, I was handed the key with the massive ‘Customer Toilet’ key tag without question. The toilet was alright, but the toilet paper was damp. That was … unpleasant. I really should have used the emergency stash in my bag.

We arrived at the Aldi car park in Tipperary a little behind Cathy and Steve due to our pit stop. They had been there long enough to send a message asking if we were in different car parks again, ha, ha. So, Bernie and I were feeling comfortable, but they were keen to find a loo. Fortunately, we didn’t have to walk too far to find the public toilets.

Next on our agenda was to find a sign to take our photos in front of because really the only reason we had come to Tipperary was because, you know, it’s a long way to Tipperary!! On our way to the Rock of Cashel it was only going to add about 25 kilometres to our journey to stop in Tipperary for a photo op. From the conveniences we continued along the mall and found a sign made for crazy tourists to photograph themselves in front of. Featuring stylized bright yellow arrows and featuring the words ‘IT’S A LONG WAY TO TIPPERARY’ it was just what we were after. Unfortunately, it didn’t show the distance to Melbourne, but it did have a plaque saying it’s 17,363 km from Tipperary to Sydney.

We took a quick stroll along the main street before returning to the cars and programming the SatNavs for the Rock of Cashel. As we were driving out of Tipperary on the N74 we were stopped by Garda on motorcycles clearing the traffic for someone important and his/her entourage as they sped through in two fancy white Mercedes cars. Bernie reckons it was Bloody Bruce and the band being taken on a sightseeing trip around County Tipperary. I was more inclined to think it was a visiting Head of State.

We continued north-east on the N74 across to Cashel to visit the Rock of Cashel an impressive cluster of medieval buildings set on a dramatic outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale. The Rock of Cashel is one of Ireland’s most iconic sites and boasts a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral and a fifteenth-century Tower House.

Originally the seat of the kings of Munster, according to legend St. Patrick himself came here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity. Brian Boru was crowned High King at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital. In 1101 the site was granted to the church and Cashel swiftly rose to prominence as one of the most significant centres of ecclesiastical power in the country.

We took a tour of the surviving buildings which were remarkable despite viewing them in the rain. Fortunately, the rain did ease part way through the tour and had stopped completely by the time we went into Cormac’s Chapel which is roofed … and dry! Perhaps our guide should have turned our tour around, beginning at the end, to accommodate the weather? But then he probably conducts the tour in the rain nearly all of the time?? Cormac’s chapel was impressive containing Ireland’s only surviving Romanesque frescoes.

We walked along to Granny’s Café for lunch. Bernie asked one of the coach drivers if it was OK. With the driver giving it his seal of approval we figured we couldn’t go wrong. While we were waiting for our toasted sandwiches Bernie wandered further down the road to put the drone up over the back fence … so to speak. Another OPW site it was not possible to fly the drone inside the Rock of Cashel’s grounds, so it had to be flown from outside the perimeter again. Bernie is getting quite good at these sneaky flyovers!

We headed north on the R660 to Holycross Abbey a restored Cistercian monastery on the banks of the River Suir that was founded in 1182 by Dónal Mór Ó Briain, the King of Limerick. It was famous for housing a relic of the True Cross which drew pilgrims from far and wide. After falling into disrepair, the abbey was reconstructed between 1400 and 1450 under the patronage of the Earls of Ormond before being dissolved about 1540. Between 1970 and 1975 the Abbey Church was restored and is now used as the Parish Church of Holycross and Ballycahill.

After the Abbey we continued north on local roads to the R498 to pick up the M7 at Junction 25. Apple Maps directed us a long way to the north to then go south-west to Limerick. We’re not sure why we didn’t drive due west from Holycross to Limerick on the R503? It may be because we weren’t going INTO Limerick because the M7 and N18 took us efficiently around the city to Bunratty so that we could visit Bunratty Castle and Folk Park.

Although we were booked in for the Medieval Banquet tonight, we wanted to visit the castle this afternoon because we weren’t sure how many rooms we would see later on. Popping in during the day we were able to explore all of the castle thoroughly. After the castle Cathy and Steve decided to head to our B&B, the Bunratty Mews, to rest up for the shenanigans tonight. We decided to stay on and complete the circuit of the Folk Park.

With closing time fast approaching our plans were almost scuppered when we visited the Blacksmith’s Forge. When John the blacksmith learnt we are from Melbourne he told us the tale of the bellows that has just been replaced after many years of faithful service. Upon removal it was discovered that the bellows had ‘Melbourne 1880’ inscribed on it. Following some discussions with other Melbourne visitors in the last month it has been concluded that the bellows were displayed at the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880!

After that interesting discussion with John, we barely had time for a quick stroll around the rest of the buildings in the Folk Park. Examples of a fishing family’s house, a Shannon Farmhouse and a Mountain Farmhouse along with early shops, a church and a schoolhouse. It was probably a little like Sovereign Hill.

Just before closing time at 5.30pm we headed out the gates and made our way along to the Bunratty Mews to check in. We put our feet up for a couple of hours before returning to the castle for our banquet dinner.

A piper greeted us at the entry and then we were ushered inside to join the castle butler and a band of musicians for an evening of medieval food and entertainment. Seated alongside Bernie and Steve were a couple celebrating their 49th wedding anniversary. They attended the medieval banquet 49 years ago during their honeymoon so were enjoying a nostalgic return visit for their wedding anniversary. Anyhoo, it’s awfully late after attending the 8.30pm sitting of the banquet so it’s time to wrap up today’s diary entry and get some sleep!



Steps: 13,704 (8.92kms)

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